Water Gardening

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creating a water garden

Nothing enhances a garden more than a water feature. Choose a spot which is visible from where you most often spend time relaxing and which can be seen from inside the house. A sunny position is best because the sun's warmth will help stimulate plant growth and fish activity. However, once installed, half the surface of the pond should be shaded with aquatic plants such as lilies. The aim is that the water is warmed but protected from direct sunlight.

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installing a pre-formed liner

1) Dig a hole slightly larger than the pool and at least 100mm deeper. Remove all stones and add a 30mm layer of sand to the bottom.
2) Place the pool in the hole and adjust it until the top is level.
3) Slowly fill the pool with water and at the same time backfill round the sides with sand or or soil, making sure that it is well packed under the shelves.
4) Leave the pond and the back filling to settle for a few days before edging the pond or planting.
5) Finally install paving or rock edge remembering to leave passage for pump cable before completion.

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installing a flexible liner

1) Firm and level the site, marking the shape of the pond on the ground with a hose, rope, or sand. A simple shape without too many sharp angles will produce the best results.
2) Excavate the pond, sloping the edges inwards about 80mm for every 250mm depth. The pond water should be at least 500mm deep to allow fish and plants to overwinter safely. Dig down at least 600mm, this will allow for a layer of sand on the bottom and any paving or rockery around the edges.
3) Remove all sharp stones, check that the top edge is level and remember to create planting ledges approximately 250mm deep.
4) Place a layer of sand or fine soil on the bottom and line the excavation with underlay.
5) Drape the liner loosely into the centre of the hole and begin to fill with water. It will form folds and pleats on the curves as it fits snugly into position.
6) When the pond is full, trim any surplus liner leaving enough to be hidden under the turf, rocks or paving.

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constructing a concrete pool

1) Mark the shape of the pond on the ground with a hose, rope, or sand and dig the hole slightly larger than the finished size to allow for the thickness of concrete.
2) Lay in 80 - 100mm foundation of hardcore and ram firmly home to provide a base, then lay in a waterproof membrane.
3) Mix 3 parts course aggregate and 1 cement and pour in concrete to a depth of 100mm all over. Use shuttering to hold concrete in position until it sets.
4) Once set, remove shuttering and apply a rendering coat of of 3 parts sand to 1 cement with waterproofing powder added. Trowel smooth the whole pool to finish.
5) After 2 or 3 weeks seal the concrete with poolglaze or pool paint to neutralize the lime in the cement.

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constructing a waterfall

Pre-fabricated watercourses ... This is an ideal way to utilise the material which is removed when creating the pond. Pre-fabricated watercourses are the easiest to install and are best set into their own individual pockets of soil. For the most natural effect, place rocks and earth around the perimeter of the cascade.
Liner watercourses
1) Roughly shape and firm the pile of soil into the waterfall formation. Concrete blocks may be used to form a skeleton, and to hold back the soil.
2) Sculpt each shelf sloping back so it can hold 80 - 100mm of water when the pump is switched off. Make a header pool at the top and lay an underlay over the whole watercourse.
3) Choose a liner material that is strong and supple for this more ambitious method of watercourse construction. If strips of liner are to be used instead of a sheet, always overlap on the fall making sure the joints are above the water line. Lay the liner in place. It must overlap by at least 150mm into the pool and the sides must be higher than than the water level.
4) Starting from the bottom of the waterfall, lay or cement the stones on top. Slate may be used to form a drop into the pool.

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choosing a pump

1) Calculate the approximate volume of your pond, remembering to allow for shelves etc. A cubic metre contains about 1000 litres of water. (A cubic foot contains about 6 gallons)
2) Decide how high above the surface of the pond water you need the pump to deliver the water. This is called the head. It may be to the top of a waterfall, to a filter, or to an ornament. The pump should push about half the volume of the pond through the filter every hour. You now have a starting flow rate at a given head, eg. 1364 litres (300 gallons) per hour at a .91 metre (3ft) head.
3) Now allow extra output if you require a particularly fast or wide waterfall. Adding 1364 litres (300 gallons) per hour for every 15cm (6 inches) of extra waterfall width, eg. a waterfall 30cm (12 inches) wide will need 2728 litres (600 gallons) per hour for a continuous sheet of water. Check that your filter will cope with this flow rate.
4) Add about 30% to this figure if an additional fountain or ornament is required. Find this final figure on the pump data charts to select a pump. Excessive runs of small hose, and dirty ponds will need pumps with larger outputs than normal. It is better to buy a larger pump and turn it down than to have a flow of water that is inadiquate.

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installing and maintaining a pump

Maintenance
1) Daily - check the pump pre-filter for signs of clogging. rinse in pond water if necessary.
2) Weekly - clean fountain jets with a soft brush.
3) Monthly - remove sludge from the impeller and housing, an old tooth brush is ideal for this. Use a descaler for the impeller when necessary.
4) In the autumn - remove the pump from the pool and protect from frost. Wash and dry all parts before storing.
Pump Installation
1) Fully submerge the pump in water, positioned so that the jet is just clear of the water surface. The pump should be mounted on a firm base off the bottom of the pond and avoiding the silt.
2) Run the electrical cable to a safe and secure connection box.
3) Run the hose from the pump to the top of the waterfall - ornament, concealing it as much as possible. Check it is not kinked or twisted and that all connections are watertight.
4) Turn on the power and check for a steady flow of water.

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installing garden electrics

1) The easiest and safest way of providing an electrical supply to your pump and lights etc. is through a waterproof electrical box firmly attached to a post, fence or wall.
2) Bury the cables about 400mm deep in a protective conduit or use an armoured cable.
3) Ensure that it is easy to isolate the circuit so that maintenance can be carried out. If three pin plugs are fitted make sure they are protected by a waterproof housing and that there is sufficient ventilation.
4) Protect the whole installation with a circuit breaker. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.

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filteration

Why Filtration?
The typical garden pond easily becomes polluted because:
It has a high fish population and, along with dead vegetation, they pollute the water. It has little water movement, with no fresh water running in and out of it.
It is shallow and therefore warm, encouraging algae blooms. This lack of water movement, plus the presence of algae, can reduce oxygen to dangerously low levels. In natural lakes a balance between pollutants and cleansers, e.g. bacteria on solid surfaces, develops to keep the water clear. A filter system will help create and maintain this balance in a garden pond - using advanced technology to provide these natural processes with a helping hand.
Sizing a pond and the system required
Achieving clear water depends on having the right size equipment. The products you need are dependent on:
The size of your pond.
The temperature of the water - warmer water encourages algae to grow, increases pollutants and reduces oxygen.
The number of fish - they are major polluters.
Pond Depth - average pond water depth less than 0.75m (2' 6") Add 25% to actual pond volume.
Pond Location - positioning and degree of shade dictates sunlight intensity and duration of exposure. If in full sun add 25% to actual pond volume.
Climate - affects water temperatures and fish activity
Hot Climate (USDA zones 8-10) + 35% . Temperate Climate (USDA zones 6-7) + 15% . North European Climate (USDA zones 1-5) +0% no addition.